CHANEL J12 BLEU: A Chromatic Evolution in Ceramic Mastery

"...For over two decades, CHANEL’s J12 has stood as a definitive icon in contemporary watchmaking, its identity shaped by the interplay of black and white high-tech ceramic. Since its introduction in 2000, the J12 has continued to challenge conventions, redefining the luxury sports watch with a bold design language and technical finesse. Now, in 2025, CHANEL ventures into uncharted territory with the introduction of J12 BLEU—a new chapter marked by a striking, proprietary shade of blue..."

While black and white remain emblematic of CHANEL’s minimalist palette, the House’s nuanced relationship with blue has long manifested in other domains—from the masculine sophistication of BLEU de CHANEL fragrance to the refined packaging of men’s grooming products. The arrival of blue into CHANEL’s watchmaking vocabulary, therefore, is not simply a colour update—it is a considered evolution, imbued with meaning and executed with exacting precision.

According to Arnaud Chastaingt, Director of the CHANEL Watchmaking Creation Studio, the ambition was to create a blue that “illuminates black”—a colour with depth, rigour and elegance. This vision culminated in a hue that took over five years to develop, a true testament to CHANEL’s relentless pursuit of material innovation. The result is a rich, matte blue ceramic that is distinctly CHANEL, combining scratch resistance, exceptional durability, and striking visual appeal.

The J12 BLEU collection launches with nine models, each combining high design with horological excellence. From understated executions to gem-set references, the collection underscores CHANEL’s ability to merge visual purity with technical complexity.

J12 BLEU TOURBILLON DIAMOND

Leading the collection is the J12 BLEU Tourbillon Diamond, a showpiece that blends mechanical ingenuity with signature CHANEL elegance. Its openworked dial houses a mesmerising flying tourbillon, crowned by a 65-facet solitaire diamond set at the heart of the cage. This brilliant centrepiece not only pays tribute to Gabrielle Chanel’s enduring love of diamonds but also elevates the dynamic motion of the tourbillon to an art form.

The watch is encased in matte blue ceramic with hand-polished case flanks and bracelet sides, a process requiring over eight hours of manual finishing. Framing the dial is a bezel adorned with 34 baguette-cut blue sapphires, amplifying its radiant architecture. Powering this model is the Calibre 5, an in-house, self-winding flying tourbillon movement composed of 172 parts, developed over three years by the CHANEL Manufacture. The movement is as refined in function as it is in form—an embodiment of CHANEL’s haute horlogerie aspirations.

J12 BLEU X-RAY

Limited to just 12 pieces worldwide, the J12 BLEU X-RAY is a feat of transparency and precision, engineered from a single block of synthetic sapphire. Over 1,600 hours of labour are required to sculpt the case and bracelet—a demonstration of exceptional technical skill and material command.

The bezel and links are rendered in 18K white gold, set with 196 baguette-cut blue sapphires, creating a vivid play of light and depth. The watch is powered by the Calibre 3.1, a hand-wound movement housed within sapphire crystal bridges and plates, giving the impression of floating mechanics. This effect is enhanced by a floating sapphire bridge decorated with twelve baguette-cut blue sapphires acting as hour markers.

The J12 BLEU X-RAY stands at the pinnacle of CHANEL’s artisanal savoir-faire—an exercise in minimalism, materiality, and lightness, limited in number but boundless in expression.

J12 BLEU 42 MM AND 28 MM SAPPHIRES

In a bold exploration of scale and brilliance, the CHANEL Watchmaking Creation Studio presents a striking duo within the J12 BLEU line, offered in two distinct case sizes: 42 mm and 28 mm. Though differing in dimensions, both timepieces share a unified aesthetic, adorned with vivid blue sapphires meticulously set across the bezel, dial and bracelet. The luminous sparkle of the baguette-cut stones contrasts beautifully with CHANEL’s matte blue ceramic, creating a compelling interplay of textures.

More than 110 hours of expert gem-setting within CHANEL’s own workshop were required to bring these creations to life. The 42 mm model is set with 170 baguette-cut sapphires, while the 28 mm version features an impressive 196 stones. Black-coated steel bezels and crowns further enhance the depth of the blue ceramic, subtly highlighting its nuances.

The 42 mm reference is powered by the self-winding Calibre 12.1—COSC-certified and finished in an elegant black coating, a signature of CHANEL’s Haute Horlogerie craftsmanship. The 28 mm model is fitted with a high-precision quartz movement, offering an alternative suited to more delicate wrists.

J12 BLEU 38 MM SAPPHIRES

Refined and radiant, the J12 BLEU 38 MM SAPPHIRES further showcases CHANEL’s mastery of gem-setting, with 58 baguette-cut sapphires adorning the bezel and hour markers. The vivid blue of these natural stones pairs seamlessly with the deep blue ceramic case, reflecting the maison’s expertise in colour matching and material harmony.

At its core lies the self-winding Calibre 12.1, a COSC-certified chronometer movement developed by Kenissi Manufacture, of which CHANEL is a co-owner. Finished in a sophisticated black tone and visible through the sapphire crystal caseback, the movement exemplifies the brand’s commitment to technical refinement.

J12 BLEU CALIBRE 12.1 – 38 MM & CALIBRE 12.2 – 33 MM

CHANEL continues to evolve the J12 BLEU collection with 38 mm and 33 mm interpretations, each distinguished by sapphire-set hour markers and cases fashioned from matte and polished blue ceramic. The 38 mm version houses the Calibre 12.1, while the more petite 33 mm variant is equipped with the Calibre 12.2—both COSC-certified automatic movements developed by Kenissi Manufacture. Each movement features a black-coated finish, underscoring CHANEL’s continued investment in precision engineering and independent Swiss watchmaking.

J12 BLEU CALIBRE 12.1 – 38 MM

Sleek and effortlessly sophisticated, the J12 BLEU 38 mm in matte blue ceramic captures the very essence of this iconic collection. A black ceramic bezel with a subtle baguette motif frames the dial, while lacquered hour markers add a refined gloss.

At its heart beats the Calibre 12.1, a COSC-certified self-winding movement offering a 70-hour power reserve. Its black finish reflects CHANEL’s hallmark approach to modern Haute Horlogerie. The movement is produced by Kenissi Manufacture in Switzerland, highlighting the maison’s strategic role in fine watchmaking.

J12 BLEU CALIBRE 12.2 – 33 MM

The J12 BLEU 33 mm presents a delicate yet distinguished silhouette. Twelve diamond-set hour markers enhance the dial with an understated elegance, while the sapphire crystal caseback reveals the meticulously finished Calibre 12.2. Its circular oscillating weight—a signature of CHANEL watch design—adds an element of harmony and balance.

COSC-certified and offering a 50-hour power reserve, the movement is manufactured at the Kenissi facility in Switzerland, a reflection of CHANEL’s ongoing dedication to craftsmanship, performance, and aesthetic purity.

With the launch of J12 BLEU, CHANEL expands the aesthetic and technical vocabulary of its flagship timepiece. More than just a colour variation, this collection represents a chromatic reimagining rooted in deep craftsmanship, innovation, and a singular design vision.  J12 BLEU reaffirms CHANEL’s stature in the modern horological landscape—where form, function, and fashion are inextricably linked.

Also See: Chanel unveils Plume de Chanel collection to celebrates a century of feathered elegance