#legend is on the ground at the Salon de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH) in snowy Geneva, here to bring you the latest news from the exclusive watch trade show event. On our third day, we bring you highlights from Audemars Piguet, Vacheron Constantin, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Greubel Forsey, Girard-Perregaux and Panerai.
Audemars Piguet
Audemars Piguet has truly dazzled us all with this year’s SIHH releases. The Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar now comes cased in matte black, brushed ceramic. No small feat, Audemars Piguet says the bracelet alone takes 30 hours to finish. In comparison, a steel Royal Oak bracelet only takes six hours to create.
The watchmaker also worked with jewellery designer Carolina Bucci to launch the Royal Oak Frosted Gold. Announced prior to SIHH, the watch captivated everyone at the fair. The watch sparkles like it’s dipped in glitter – an effect that is achieved from an ancient gold hammering process called the Florentine technique. The watch is currently marketed at ladies only, but judging from the stellar reception from the other gender, this could all change in the future.
Last year, Vacheron Constantin debuted its “World’s Most Complicated” pocket watch with 57 complications. This year, the brand upped its game by releasing its most complicated wristwatch to date: the Les Cabinotiers Celestia Astronomical Grand Complication 3600. The watch is five years in the making, the work of one master watchmaker, boasts 23 functions and comes with a hefty price tag of more than US$1 million.
2016 was about the Reverso, 2017 is about the Rendez-Vous collection. Originally introduced by the maison in 2012, the Rendez-Vous collection bears all the hallmarks of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Métiers Rares, combining impeccable timekeeping accuracy and excellent artistry in jewellery making.
Jaeger-LeCoultre also released three special editions of the Master Control watch for the line’s 25th anniversary: the Master Control Date, a chronograph version and a Geographic that shows a second timezone at 6 o’clock and a city disk at the bottom.
Greubel Forsey makes headlines for creating some of the world’s most high-end watches, and this year is no different. The watchmaker revealed a Grand Sonnerie at SIHH 2017, an extremely challenging complication that is attempted by few. The watch took Greubel Forsey ten years to develop, and features not surprisingly, a tourbillon that juts out between the 8 and 9 o’clock mark.
Girard-Perregaux marked its return to SIHH (it was a founding member but left in 2013) with the return of the Laureato. The popular 1970s design with its distinct look of an octagonal bezel on top of a round bezel is offered this year in three sizes: 34mm, 42mm and a tourbillon in a substantial 45mm case.
In the latest breakthrough, Panerai has found a way to reduce friction to a minimum in the movement and are so confident it has found the solution that the brand has given the watch a guarantee of 50 years. The newly launched Panerai LAB-ID Luminor 1950 Carbotech 3 Days PAM 7P.3001/C calibre movement holds four innovations, including the use of dry lubricated barrels and a silicon escapement. The watch is limited to only 50 pieces.
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