Watches and Wonders 2024: Grand Seiko revisits manual-winding movement with new Birch-inspired watch

Grand Seiko launches new High-Beat movement and draws inspiration from the beautiful surroundings of its Northern Japan studio, Gloria Fung writes

Japanese watchmakers known for their dedication to precision and artistic approach to dial executions create a timepiece that speaks to both know-hows. Grand Seiko launched the new Evolution 9 Collection Manual-winding Mechanical Hi-Beat 36000 80 Hours Limited Edition in two alloy iterations at this year’s Watches and Wonders.

This year, the brand celebrates its heritage with the launch of a new high-beat hand-wound movement for the first time in over half a century. The particular movement is an update from the mechanical calibre that the brand heavily relied on for precision in the 1960s.

The calibre 9SA4 is an elegant time-only movement that is housed inside the classic grand Seiko Evolution 9 dress watch case. Based on the manufacturer’s 9SA5, the new movement features a dual impulse escapement and double barrels, giving the piece an 80-hour power reserve when fully wound.

This year, the watchmaker brings a fresh take to the dial with what is said to be a birch wood-inspired face. The textured dial is a recreation of the white birch trees indigenous to Northern Japan, found abundantly near the grand seiko studio Shizukuishi. Known for the meticulous and elegant execution of its dials, grand seiko’s take on the white birch is a poetic and romantic homage to its roots.

The 38.6mm watch is presented in pink gold and titanium iterations, with the former being limited to 80 pieces. The titanium reference, however, will be a mainstay in the Grand Seiko lineup going forward. Grand Seiko’s proprietary Brilliant Hard Titanium is used for the titanium reference, allowing the watch to be polished to a brighter shine compared to conventional titanium.

Aside from the refined movement, the case also sees several updates. The design looks slimmed down and sleek visually overall, thanks to its pared-down grooved indices and more tapered lugs. Both references are presented with a leather strap and alloy-matching clasp.

Also see: Watches and Wonders 2024: Oris presents facelift to the Aquis diver watch