Watches and Wonders 2024: Bell and Ross goes all-black with new ceramic BR05

The aircraft instrument-inspired BR05 gets the all-back treatment with its new ceramic case, Gloria Fung writes

The iconic proportions of the BR05 are a mainstay at Bell and Ross. This year, the house puts a fresh spin on it with a new ceramic case and link bracelet.

The silhouette of the Bell and Ross BR05 is a familiar one for many. The design of the piece is inspired by aircraft instruments, which lends it the unmistakable design of a square case with a round dial.

The piece has seen many iterations over the years in terms of colours and dial design. At Watches and Wonders this year, Bell and Ross join the ranks of watchmakers who tap into the use of ceramic with its first-ever timepiece in the material.

The BR05 in ceramic is presented in two references: a time-only and one with a skeletonized dial. The watchmaker opted to bring focus to the ceramic design of its skeleton iteration with Superluminova accents. The design detail proves to be a striking one as the green glow of the Superluminova of the BR05 Black Ceramic Skeleton completely changes the aesthetics of the design from day to night.

The time-only reference shares similar aesthetics, albeit with a traditional dial. Both references measure 41 mm and are powered by the same automatic movement, a Bell & Ross BR-Cal.321-1 calibre. The movement brings this piece 54 hours of power reserve. The beating heart of the piece sets into motion the hour, minute and second hands. Protected behind sapphire crystal casebacks, the movements are displayed in full view for both the skeleton and the dialled version.

Both designs come with the option of a ceramic link bracelet, also in black, which adds to the stealthy appearance of the design. A steel buckle treated in black PVD completes the look.

​​Also see: Watches and Wonders 2024: Grand Seiko revisits manual-winding movement with new Birch-inspired watch