Vibrant colours make a splash on the Spring 2022 runways in Milan

Spring has come to Milan. Unlike last year due to Covid-19 and lockdowns, the Italian fashion capital is playing host once again with the return of physical runway shows taking place across the city

As the industry celebrated the ability to gather once again, comradery was also felt in the repeat themes spotted on the Spring/Summer 2022 runways. Mini-skirts and dresses, bra tops, crochet and bright colours signalled a sense of optimism for the future and the need for fresh air and fun. It’s fashion’s vengeance on the year 2020-21 that didn’t allow for much.

Crochet Queen

Crochet reigned the Milanese runway across multiple shows for spring 2022. Tod’s sent out natural summer crochet dresses in laser-cut splices and crochet tops with nubby fringes derived from the art of carpet-making. While Etro’s crocheted rainbow maxi dress tasselled to the ground. Emilio Pucci’s crochet bikini top took the crochet trend back to its swinging 60s roots while propelling us forward to summer 2022, free of isolation and restrictions.

Bralette Babes

Bringing sexy back, several designers showcased the bra or bralette on the runway. Heritage house Ferragamo infused a busty silk bra into its refined luxury show, pairing it with mannish trousers and leather mules. Dolce & Gabbana and Missoni both redefined the racy undergarment top, sat under relaxed tailoring for a liberating take on power dressing for women next spring. It is as to say ‘Don’t want to wear a restrictive shirt next year’? You don’t have to.

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Candy Crush

Candy colours signalled the need for optimism and fun at Milan fashion week. And not just splashes of saccharine hues, but bright and bold colour-blocking. Versace’s fuchsia pink suiting was matched with a tangerine top (backed by bright blue eyeshadow too). MSGM colour-blocked a whimsical fluoro pink baby-doll dress over lime green stilettos. Blumarine opted for an all-over candy crush looks, several made up of neon lime green for headscarf, sunglasses, and stilettos to boot.

Halter Tops

Throwing it back to the early noughties, the halter’s return hailed the renaissance of Y2K style on the runway in Milan. Reliving the pre-social media era, Blumarine’s nostalgia-packed show featured halter maxi dresses, fringed halter bikini tops and a butterfly-shaped denim halter top (perhaps a riff on the crazed butterfly clips known to millennial teens). Missoni mixed in the halter trend too – showcasing side-spliced fitted frocks in exuberate patterns, alongside a naval-baring metallic halter top, paired with comfort-heavy trousers.

Modern Minis

Milan showed the need to shed loungewear post-lockdown and show some leg with the runway awash with mini-skirts and dresses. Versace showcased modern minidresses in black with neon side details. Prada paraded both skirts and dresses – in monochromes and muted tones – reviving the mini and its controversial skirt length made infamous in the 60s. Emilio Pucci going bolder still with bright minis and dresses that felt futuristic in cut and fabric.

Mega Flower Power

Florals for spring? Not just any flower. Mega flowers. As seen at Marni, where daisies bloomed over tight halterneck maxis and crop-top/mini-skirt co-ord sets. Dsquared2 left us fawning over a hibiscus flower dress in yellow that floated on the springtime air. While MSGM in turn took a more art-inspired approach with all-over floral trousers and shirting combos worthy of Monet’s gardens.

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