An Old-School Omakase Right in Wan Chai

Hong Kong has an undeniable love for all things Japanese, but it’s rare to find a spot in this city that possesses that elusive, dare-we-say ‘authentic’ quality. Thankfully, we found one: Sushi Masataka. Named after Head Chef Masataka “Masa” Fujisawa, a master with over 25 years of experience, the newly re-opened omakase-style sushi restaurant doesn’t flirt with trends or modernity, it holds fast to its traditionally-inspired roots.

The experience is intimate, as omakase should be, accepting only nine diners each seating. If you like ambiance with your otoro, this is not the place. Modelled after the fine-dining restaurants of Japan, there’s no music, and Chef Masa isn’t there to perform or entertain, he’s there to work. It’s hypnotising watching him slice, score and mould each bite-sized ‘course’, moving with alarming speed and precision while, somehow, engaging with each guest. Turns out, this sushi master is a big fan of the iPhone 7.

Our meal consisted of 21 courses, the flavours of which constantly ebbed and flowed, alternating between sweet and subtle, and powerfully rich and complex. Our favourites were the monkfish liver with ponzu jelly, fish bone-broth miso soup and the Isaka (Grunt fish) from Kagoshima, served with a pepper sauce and red shisho leaf.

The space is small and simple, but we were impressed by the comprehensive lists of Japanese sake and whisky, which claims to be the largest in the city. Sadly, we didn’t get to try, but we’ve got our eyes set on the Bokushi Daiginjyou sake. Hand sourced by the chef, they only produce 700 bottles per year, and Sushi Masataka holds 100 of them.

Sushi Masataka is open for two dinner seatings Tuesday- Sunday, from 18:00-23:00, and reservations are a must.

Sushi Masataka, Shop 2, G/F, The Oakhill, 16 Wood Road, Wan Chai 2574 1333
www.sushimasataka.com