Paris Fashion Week 2022: Day 2 with Declan Chan
Sep 29, 2022
Hong Kong stylist, Declan Chan, is in the City of Lights during one of its most fashionable times of the year. He checks out Courrèges, Dries Van Noten, HKFashionFarmfoundation, Rochas and Acne
Courrèges
My second day of Paris Fashion Week started with a trip off the rainy boulevards of Paris and into the futuristic oasis of Courrèges. White walls smoothly framed a circular catwalk filled with Reddish yellow sand. As the show started, a continuously growing sinkhole appeared in the centre of the catwalk while grains of sand began to fall from the ceiling. Models drifted past dressed in free-flowing garments that personified a retro-futuristic mood. Bella Hadid Swept down the catwalk in a speckled denim look while holding a pair of heels that matched the colour of the sand she paced through. Garments in Shades of White, Black, and Navy dominated this collection that sparkled like desert sand blowing in the wind.
Dries Van Noten
At the entrance of the Dries Van Noten show, I found myself using a coin to scratch off the dark black film that covered my invitation. Underneath the thick film lining, an explosion of colours appeared. As with the invitation, the Dries catwalk began with looks that highlighted the beauty of pure black and then swiftly burst into a myriad of colours. Loose silhouettes billowing with fabric around necklines caught my attention. The purity of black clashing with the brand’s signature Floral prints created a contrasting and particularly delicate collection. This season, Dries shows us how combining traditionally fragile accessories as hand-blown glass can effortlessly pair with robust layered looks.
HKFashionFarmfoundation
Midday, I headed over to the HKFashionFarmfoundation where designers, including Shek Leung and Kyle Ho, presented their collections. I admired the whimsical printed garments from Shek Leung. The collection expressed a raw and natural energy that reminded me of the outdoors. In the same space, Kyle Ho presented his traditional tailoring that projected a vision of softness and imperfection through a white suit with a coffee-stained backdrop. The elegant garments by Kyle featured an array of natural colours that subtly express perfect imperfection.
Also see: Paris Fashion Week SS23: What to expect
Rochas
This season, Rochas’ playful and dramatic collection conjured up feelings of an elegant weekend afterparty. White Sheets wrapped the legendary stage of the Folies Bergère cabaret like precious furniture at a Château soirée. Charles de Vilmorin’s debut collection had models strutting down the catwalk with attitudes as voluminous as the dresses they wore. The collection was colourful and featured ruffled sleeves, tops, and dresses that personified a punk attitude.
Acne
On the occasion of Acne Studios’ 10th year anniversary, Jonny Johansson delivered one of the most striking collections I have ever seen from Acne. The Nordic brand’s emblematic pink engulfed the fluffy catwalk that saw models draped in subtle pastels. Sharp spikes pierced out of accessories and garments, creating a clash between calm colours and ferocious details. This energy was also visible through the set design that featured mattresses with silky sheets and candle holders made of jagged shells. An exquisite balancing act of comfortable eeriness penetrated the room.
The Acne runway was full of intricate lace, sturdy leather, and – as always – unique knitwear. Large ribbons formed entire dresses and were seen layered under shirts as well as visible on bags and shoes. The pink carpet continued to dazzle even after the show ended when I saw Kylie Jenner, who wore a romantic white ruched dress. My last show of the day fittingly inspired a tender and relaxed mood for the evening to come.
