La Terrace by Louise's chef on French food and its two-in-one concept

Just in time for summer, La Terrace by Louise beckons diners to enjoy its exquisite French fare in a new, more relaxed indoor-outdoor setting. Executive chef Loic Portalier talks to Stephenie Gee about returning to helm the kitchen, managing two distinct concepts and always striving to keep things simple 

The weather is getting warmer, days are longer and all over Hong Kong, sidewalk seating, garden patios and rooftops abound. The latest addition to the repertoire is La Terrace by Louise, the casual extension to the Michelin-starred institution founded by JIA Group and acclaimed French chef Julien Royer. Set on the ground-floor garden lounge and patio, it’s a distinctly separate concept from the upstairs fine-diner, embracing a more laid-back ambiance for diners to kick back and relax. But what remains constant is the exceptionally good food, all expertly crafted by Loic Portalier, who after serving as sous chef early in the restaurant’s life in 2019 has returned as the new executive chef overseeing both floors.

Everything is a highlight, really. Portalier’s favourites, the pineapple tomato with yellow peach and a basil dressing is refreshingly light and bright, while the spicy black pudding, prepared Basque Country-style and paired with shallots and red endives, is rich and flavourful. Then, of course, there’s Louise’s renowned and signature roasted yellow chicken – with half portions now available – complete with a fragrant chicken oil-infused Niigata rice en cocotte studded with shards of crispy skin. Accompaniments are tasty and unpretentious, from the green salad with lemon dressing to homemade French fries and La Truffade de Louise, featuring sautéed potatoes, young Cantal cheese, garlic and parsley.

How does it feel to be back at Louise, this time as executive chef?

It feels great to be back at Louise, and I’m humbled to take over after Franckelie [Laloum], who did a great job during his time here. I’m also very grateful to Yenn [Wong, founder of JIA Group] and Julien for trusting me with the position. Louise is a place I’m very familiar with and where I’ve always loved working. It’s an iconic establishment in Hong Kong, so it’s a great challenge for me. We’re extremely lucky to have a space that offers us the opportunity to split the venue into two different concepts, and I hope I’ll bring a bit of freshness and positive energy to the venue. 

What is the experience you want to offer at La Terrace by Louise?

We really want to offer a different experience for the guests, something more casual but still offering the same quality of service and food that we have upstairs. La Terrace by Louise is more affordable and relaxed, which can attract and satisfy a larger audience. We don’t want Louise to be a place for special occasions only; it can be a lot more than that. 

How would you describe your culinary philosophy? 

I love taking a very “simple” approach to the ingredients we work with. Usually, when we develop a new recipe, we try not to have too many ingredients on the plate. We should keep it simple so guests can understand what we’re trying to express through our dishes. I feel like you can quickly lose yourself if you want to do too much at once, as I believe “less is more”. As long as we have high-quality products, good seasoning and appropriate technique, most of the job is done.

You blend traditional French cooking with a modern twist and vision – how do you balance tradition with innovation? Any examples?

I learned the art of cooking through traditional methods, and have established a strong foundation rooted in classic culinary practices. However, I believe it’s essential to adapt new techniques, products and seasonings to remain competitive and maintain my passion. I’m very attentive to what people say about their experience. I think the main example would be the way we design our menu. Our approach leans towards a shorter and lighter menu, taking into consideration that guests prefer lighter dishes and a shorter dining time. 

Any challenges you encountered with this new role? Perhaps overseeing two distinct concepts?

My main challenge will be separating the two concepts within a single establishment. It’s like running two restaurants in one with the same team, requiring significant effort and careful consideration. I believe the team has done a great job and devised a strategy to deliver amazing dining experiences for the two concepts, without compromising on the quality we strive for. 

What inspired you to pursue a career in the culinary arts?

I like to think that I’m still at the beginning of my culinary journey. It’s a passion that teaches you valuable lessons every day, extending beyond the realm of cooking. It has allowed me to travel around the world, meet incredible people, and grow personally and professionally. It’s definitely not the easiest job, but a very rewarding one if you dedicate yourself to this path.

You’ve worked with top international chefs in several Michelin-starred establishments – any in particular that have played a major influence in shaping your culinary vision? 

All of them in their own way: Régis Marcon for his very familial approach to management; Paul Bocuse for the importance of working as a team, the techniques and the rigour; Eric Frechon for his selection of products and his precision in cooking; and Daniel Calvert for his pursuit of perfection. They all played an immense part in shaping who I am today, and I’m extremely grateful to have maintained great relationships with each of them. 

What’s next for you? Any goals? 

Like any chef, seeing the restaurant full every day is the best reward; it signifies the team’s success. Another goal of mine is to bring others with me on this journey and to foster the growth of those alongside me, just as I have had the privilege to develop and learn in my past experiences. Someday, I aspire to run my own restaurant – a goal of mine that I will continue working towards. 

Also see: Where to eat in Hong Kong this September