In an almost entirely virtual show calendar, the recently wrapped up Milan Fashion Week Men’s still managed to show the latest in men’s luxury fashion and trends for Spring/Summer 2022.
Etro, Giorgio Armani and Dolce & Gabbana did each had a live audience show, recreating the buzz of seasons past, while the remaining digital shows – pre-recorded runways or campaign videos – were produced with both creativity and cutting culturally poignancy, as if to point to brighter post-pandemic days, where one can once again plan for summer travel again. But, for now, it’s escapism via the clothes, and that deserves a resounding “Bravo!”
Here are the six best men’s shows from Milan Fashion Week.
Prada’s fashion show literally took men to the beach this summer, via a partly video shot on the sunny beaches of Sardinia. In a post-pandemic world, the everyday freedom of going to the beach was Prada’s muse, seen in the Italian label’s plain and printed short-shorts, macro-floral printed hoodies, and seafaring buckets. Not forgetting quintessential nautical imagery – an octopus, anchors and fish printed onto lightweight blazers and rompers. Prada’s primary-coloured leather biker jackets in red or yellow were also a standout.
Dolce & Gabbana
Italian duo Dolce & Gabbana delivered a dazzling live-show with 96 new looks for summer ’22 at the Metropol in Milan. Dubbed “#DGLightTherapy”, the lightworks collection featured gemstone suiting and jewel-tone silk shirts; tricolour ‘Italia’ sportswear and animal print and sequined tailoring; alongside fluoro paint-splattered off-duty jackets, shirts and pants. There was an oversized jacket-and-trouser, denim-on-denim combo, that blared 90s hip-hip culture, ringing in petrol-washed or bleached jeans, blown out at the knees, and layered mesh tops over white tank tops. And the half-and-half sports jacket is making its official comeback this season, thanks to D&G.
Fendi revealed a pastel-coloured summer collection via video. Mint, lavender and sand, with rays of orange, lapped over louche colour-blocked tailoring and intarsia-print asymmetrical knits, which mimicked aerial views of Roman hills. Utility pockets were grafted onto linen shorts and casual pants, designed to hold a smartphone or headphone for today’s tech-lead man.
Fendi also played with its famed Baguette bag, which was much smaller this season and worn by the belly. On par with the house’s new navel-gazing cropped blazers, bomber jackets and sports tanks; the extra skin on show indicating an even freer man in Fendi’s post-pandemic summer of 2022.
Giorgio Armani’s live-show sent out revamped suit silhouettes in the house’s iconic navy and grey, designed to be worn uniquely as separates, pairing with rolled linen trousers or with pop-coloured Bermuda shorts; at times replacing a natty blazer with an arm-exposing gilet.
Comfy knits were tucked into roomy pants, with luxe boxy bombers in summer gold paired with matching linen shorts, rolled up chunky at the hem. Armani’s rendition of summer style calling us to Italy again
In another rare physical show sighting, Etro choose an out-of-action railroad in the Scalo Farini area of Milan to showcase its latest collection. Yearning to dress-up again post-pandemic, the Italian house – known for its iconic paisley print – sent out elegant silk shirting in romantic patterns and angelic motifs, worn with deep necklines or fully open. Citrus-hued ombre tailoring sparked lucid ideas of summer, with saccharine outerwear dotted throughout; an animal print bomber laced with gold thread a standout. Intarsia knits were bright and two-toned, sometimes sleeveless with adorned neckline details. Escapism at its finest, into the Etro fantasy world.
Diesel’s summer ’22 video captured a late 90s-inspired collection of denim, denim, denim, marking the debut of the Italian marque’s new design head, Glenn Martens. Starring a red-haired girl running through the streets, the video based loosely on Run, Lola, Run showcased racy denim items, and with an eco-twist, as part of the label’s new Denim Library, which will see it produce sustainable denim offerings at a much greater level from here on out.
That looked like bleached-out matching jackets and jeans, triple-denim outfits in varied washes of blue and black, and black statement printed trackpants that flared out under oversized multicoloured blousons. The denim topcoats in varied washes and textures proving to be the Matrix-esque coat we never knew we wanted, or could have, this summer.